HOOGAN ET BEAUFORT RESTAURANT - MONTREAL

Aug 30

A Montreal Gastronomic Pearl

In Montreal's culinary landscape, where well-known areas like Notre Dame, the Plateau and Villeray often attract attention, Hoogan et Beaufort shines brightly as a must-visit destination. With more than a decade under its belt, this restaurant maintains its relevance with admirable consistency. It masterfully embodies the balance between refined cuisine and a welcoming, unpretentious ambience.

Nestled among the remnants of the Angus Shops, Hoogan et Beaufort reveals a charming industrial spirit, with its high ceilings and open central kitchen. The lively atmosphere is pleasant without ever becoming intrusive.

The tasting menu stands out for its original choices, differing slightly from recent trends. The dishes, designed for individual tasting rather than sharing, make up a five-stage service. Right from the start, a crudo of Magdalen Islands scallops, cut into small cubes, is subtly combined with thin slices of cantaloupe in a cantaloupe-scented water. A celebration of freshness, presented at just the right temperature. Next, tuna belly delights are accompanied by white asparagus, radishes and shishitos, presented with crispy focaccia and whipped butter. This culinary prelude gives way to Quebec venison cappelleti, topped with a romesco sauce, a simply perfect gustatory crescendo. As expected, the main course features Quebec beef onglet, enhanced with marinated chanterelles and a divinely caramelized sauce. Every bite is a gastronomic experience that evokes the slow, captivating ascent of a mountain from which one never wishes to return. The suggested wine pairings (an optional extra on the menu) are a masterful match. To round off this symphony of flavors, we were presented with blueberry scones with corn cake, apricots and pecans, all bathed in a spicy mousse.

Winner of an award from the prestigious Wine Spectator magazine, H&B boasts a wine list of impressive quality, with not only grands crus, but also little-known gems. This is the third time I've photographed the wine label and dispenser in this restaurant, in the hope of finding the same nugget elsewhere.

The service, which is both precise and friendly, stands out for its competence and friendliness. On our last visit before a CF Montreal match, limited time was no obstacle. The tasting menu ($100 per person) was brilliantly presented, and the bill landed on our table exactly as requested at the start of the meal.

With every meal, we ask ourselves what could be improved, and frankly, nothing comes to mind. The evening is a picture of perfection. With each visit, Hoogan et Beaufort reinforces its status as a Montreal gem.

Not to be missed: An exceptional culinary experience, which would have earned a Michelin star if the inspectors had explored Montreal. All at a reasonable price for the experience.

The only regret: Not having had the opportunity to extend this exceptional moment.