LE ST-URBAIN RESTAURANT - MONTREAL

Aug 28

A successful culinary revival!

At the heart of Rue Fleury Ouest for many years, St-Urbain chose to undergo a metamorphosis this year. Evolving beyond the traditional appetizer-main course-dessert scheme, the restaurant has embraced the current trend for sharing dishes. A palette of nearly fifteen options is available, either à la carte or via a tasting menu (reasonably priced at $85, given the quality). This time, we broke with our usual habits by personalizing our menu for a memorable evening with friends.

The welcoming restaurant boasts an open kitchen and a cosy atmosphere. Outside, a charming terrace offers mainly tables for two, while the menu unfolds on both paper and slate. The wine selection stands out for its originality, even including some surprising choices by the glass for an establishment of this size.

Our waiter segmented the menu into two parts: starters and main courses, although in reality they are almost similar in size. We kicked off the evening among friends with a tasting of a dozen oysters, subtly accompanied by two distinctly flavored mignonettes, one with maple and jalapeño. A bold and exquisite combination that sublimated the finesse of the oyster.

The first course introduced us to the courageous but successful marriage of octopus and pesto sausage. Next, a ceviche of scallops, cucumber and preserved lemon, remarkably fresh and subtle, proved to be a favorite. This was followed by a dish of beet, caraway and yoghurt, and trout croquettes. The third course, focusing on more substantial dishes, featured a perfectly cooked beef onglet à la fleur d'ail with crispy crust, chanterelle ravioli, and a plate of mushroom gnocchi with pistachio pesto, a real favorite. For dessert, warm beignets with caramel and fleur de sel were shared. Perhaps not the most revolutionary proposal, but incredibly comforting and presented with a touch of originality.

The only hitch was in the service: although courteous and virtually flawless in terms of pace, our waiter didn't quite master the wine list. We would have preferred him to direct us to a more competent colleague to guide us through this magnificent selection. Fortunately, the quality of the food quickly made us forget this minor inconvenience.

To sum up, the rebirth of the St-Urbain under the direction of chef Lindsay McLaren is a real success. The culinary experience is simply satisfying and impressive: the flavours, the ambience and the reasonable price make the new St-Urbain an address not to be missed.