Bas-St-Laurent and Gaspésie
If you share our love for good food and travel, this article is for you. Our approach is based on recommending places we have personally enjoyed, rather than posting negative reviews. Here is our selection of recommendations for an unforgettable experience between Quebec and Gaspésie.
Capitale-Nationale Region (Quebec)
If you are leaving from western Quebec towards the superb regions of Bas-Saint-Laurent and Gaspésie, be sure to make a stop in the Capitale-Nationale region (Quebec) to enjoy Old Quebec and its restaurants. Consult our article on the Tanière 3 Restaurant for an extraordinary experience.
Just a 15-minute drive away, if you have time, cross the Île d'Orléans suspension bridge to discover the cradle of the French colony in America. The Route des Saveurs undoubtedly passes through there. There you can taste its famous strawberries, visit vineyards, cheese factories, bakeries and chocolate factories. In addition, the view of Montmorency Falls from some of these locations is spectacular. Above all, don't forget to stop at Cassis Monna et Filles to taste the best soft cream in the region. It is not for nothing that they won the gastronomic tourism prize at the Lauriers de la Gastronomie 2023. For us, it is now a must!
Bas-St-Laurent
Kamouraska sector
For the rest of our trip, leaving the Quebec region and entering Bas-St-Laurent, we opted for the Route des Navigateurs. This road, also known as "132", is indeed a very popular scenic route in Quebec and Canada. It runs along the St. Lawrence River and offers travelers spectacular landscapes, picturesque villages, historic lighthouses and numerous opportunities for exploration. By choosing to take the Route des Navigateurs rather than Highway 20, you can enjoy a more relaxing and scenic driving experience. You'll have the opportunity to stop frequently to admire the magnificent views, discover historic sites, and enjoy local attractions. In short, the Navigators Route is an ideal option for travelers who want to take their time, enjoy enchanting landscapes and explore the charms of the Quebec coastline.
Our next stop was in the splendid Kamouraska region. Our goal was to enjoy a hike and spend an original night at the Perchoirs du Cirque .
Our choice of hike was on the Cabouron circuit , in the village of St-Germain-de-Kamouraska. This trail, 8.5 km long, delighted us with its four viewpoints offering breathtaking panoramas of the majestic river, the green agricultural expanses and the picturesque valley. Coming back, we took Rang Mississippi, bordered by fields as far as the eye can see and charming houses, thus crossing the village. Without a doubt, this section is among the most beautiful rows in Quebec, and we savored every moment of this walk which took us more than two hours. This hike can be considered intermediate. It is best to bring a mosquito repellent to take full advantage of it. In any case, we highly recommend this experience, as it is a true wonder not to be missed during your visit to the region.
After doing some shopping for our meal in our unusual accommodation, we headed to IKAR, our cabin perched on the mountain. Impeccably clean, this retreat offered stunning views. It should be noted that this cabin is closest to the parking lot. When we arrived, little touches awaited us, making our stay truly memorable: beer, wine, food, and more. We would like to highly recommend this place to spend the night in the middle of the forest. The view of the river is superb, offering a magnificent spectacle at sunset. The only slight drawback is the lack of showers on site, so it is necessary to plan accordingly. Adding a shower, even an outdoor one, would improve the stay. Overall, this is a unique experience and highly recommended.
Rivière-du-Loup sector
At daybreak, we continued our journey, crossing the superb village of Notre-Dame-du-Portage to admire the houses along the water. Then we headed towards Rivière-du-Loup. Initially, arriving on a commercial boulevard, our expectations were modest, only planning to experience an ordinary big city. However, our delight was increased tenfold as soon as we took the famous rue Lafontaine, the main artery of the city center. There, we were charmed by its imposing church, its adorable little shops, beautifully restored and nicely displayed, as well as its welcoming restaurants. This climb up the street gave us a much more positive view of the city. We would like to warmly recommend the restaurant "L'Innocent" for its delicious breakfasts, a taste experience not to be missed.
Les Basques sector
For me, Bas-Saint-Laurent is a region that evokes memories of my childhood, in particular the Basques region. This is where I discovered the magnificent town of Trois-Pistoles and the famous Fromagerie des Basques . We highly recommend the herbed cheese curds. In this sector, we were also charmed by the hilly landscapes of the agricultural hinterland and the natural beauty of Lake Saint-Mathieu-de-Rioux. During our stay, we had the chance to spend the night in a charming Air B n B that I highly recommend: the Vieux Couvent . The property was for sale in 2023 but if the place retains its charm, you will find a community kitchen to cook for yourself. The place is clean and the current owners take great care. They served us a delicious lunch.
Rimouski-Neigette sector
Highlights along the route include Parc National du Bic , which offers hiking trails and stunning coastal scenery. We chose two captivating hikes: Ile-aux-Amours (easy) and Les Anses (intermediate), for a total of 9 km. The first invites you to take a pleasant walk along the beach, then cross a magnificent forest. The second route will take you through steeper landscape, following the water's edge. This is partially shaded, offering a refreshing walk on hot days. It is also possible to explore this magnificent Sépaq park by bike thanks to its 15 km of developed trails. During your visit, you may be lucky enough to spot deer.
Further on, while passing Pointe-au-Père, we suggest some essential stops to make your stay memorable. One of them is visiting the Onondaga submarine, an experience that I myself have wanted to have for a long time. However, it is essential to take into account that this attraction is very popular, so plan to go early to avoid the crowds. Additionally, if you suffer from claustrophobia, it is important to note that touring the ship may be difficult. Nevertheless, this visit offers a unique opportunity to discover life on board an authentic submarine and to understand the daily life of its crew of around 70 people. You will be able to take a close look at the interior of the submarine and immerse yourself in its fascinating history.
Enter Gaspésie
You have the opportunity to explore the magnificent Gaspésie by following a route either clockwise or counterclockwise. For our part, we chose to travel this region counterclockwise, a decision that we did not regret. Here are some of our unforgettable favorites:
After staying in the charming Bas-Saint-Laurent region, our trip took us to Carleton-sur-Mer, crossing the majestic Matapedia Valley. Although we did not take the time to make specific stops in this MRC, we strongly encourage you to take advantage of the roadside rest stops which offer a breathtaking view of the splendid river which meanders through the valley. You will be amazed by the beauty of this exceptional natural environment.
Chaleur Bay
I highly recommend making a stop in the charming village of Carleton-sur-Mer. For a unique taste experience, don't forget to visit the Microbrasserie Le Naufrageur , the Brûlerie du Quai or the Comptoir d' Huîtres William B. If you want to book a dinner, you can rely on the quality of the dishes offered by Le Marin d'Eau Douce . This picturesque establishment located on the shores of Baie des Chaleurs offers excellent cuisine. You will enjoy a delicious meal in an enchanting setting. Although the establishment offers rather standard seafood dishes, we were delighted by the impeccable execution. Not surprising when we think that its owner was executive chef at the prestigious Manoir Richelieu in Charlevoix and executive chef for SEPAQ in Fort Prével in Gaspésie.
Bonaventure sector
The town of Bonaventure is a must-see when you want to go down the Bonaventure River by canoe or kayak. I have had the pleasure of living this experience several times and each time was a real pleasure. However, this time due to the weather conditions we decided to go for a hike. Following the route usually reserved for cyclists, we took a long walk which deserves to be recommended: that of the Domaine des Chutes du Ruisseau Creux . From time to time, small wooden bridges cross the river, allowing visitors to fully enjoy this natural spectacle. During my visit to the site, I noticed that the staircase leading to the bottom of the gorge was partially demolished. Despite this, as a true adventurer, Marc decided to venture out and go down to admire the impressive spectacle before him. Fortunately, construction of a new staircase is planned for fall 2023, which will allow visitors to fully enjoy this wonderful experience.
Percé sector
One of the greatest pleasures of traveling is stopping and meeting wonderful people, enjoying their accents, and recognizing their great work. In the direction of Percé, if you have the chance to stop at the Grande-Rivière fish, don't miss market the opportunity to buy their delicious strips of salted cod. An unforgettable experience may await you! I would particularly like to mention the excellent service of Poisson Salé Gaspésien Ltée, which made this stop even more memorable.
Our next stop: tasting the exceptional products of the Société Secrète , a distillery installed in a church, an experience that awakens the eyes and the taste buds. They offer a range of interesting products but our favorite is definitely the Chat Noir, their version of Old Tom Gin.
It’s impossible to visit the Percé region without making a must-stop at Brasserie Auval , especially if you’re a beer lover. Their creations have won numerous awards and they are regularly recognized as the BEST BEERS IN THE COUNTRY. You will be pleasantly surprised by the quality and diversity of their beer selection, which will make your visit even more memorable. Don't miss this opportunity to taste exceptional beers at Auval during your visit to Percé!
If you want to visit Bonaventure Island and observe its colony of gannets, it is advisable to get to the boat early enough to take advantage of the hike that crosses the island. Unfortunately, I couldn't do it this time. We had arrived too late, but opted for a short hike near the cross at the top of the hill, offering an interesting view of Rocher Percé.
If you're looking for a longer, more cardio-stimulating walk, I recommend visiting the Emerald River Municipal Park. You will walk there for about 700 meters before you can relax by the magnificent waterfall.
Emerald River Municipal Park With its crystal clear and sparkling waters, it adds a touch of natural beauty to this already enchanting landscape. The banks of the river are lined with lush vegetation, with majestic trees reflected in the calm water. The gentle murmur of flowing water and the singing of birds create a peaceful and relaxing atmosphere. In short, this pretty river which flows near the road is a true natural gem which enchants travelers with its beauty and tranquility. She is proof that nature can be within reach, reminding us to take the time to appreciate the little wonders around us.
Forillon National Park sector
As you leave Percé towards the Gaspé sector, you will quickly be struck by the evolution of the landscape. The road which winds between sea and mountains is simply majestic and well worth the detour. If you decide to continue your journey beyond the City of Gaspé, be sure to stop at the Café de la Traverse, a charming old presbytery, where you can enjoy a delicious coffee on the terrace. This welcoming place is an essential stop before continuing your adventure towards the Park.
Forillon National Park offers a truly unforgettable experience. Although it was the furthest stop on our trip, it turned out to be our absolute favorite. We would like to warmly congratulate Parks Canada for the remarkable preservation of the authenticity of its parks.
In Penouille, we experienced a moment of happiness by renting a vehicle resembling a hybrid between a bicycle and a pedal-powered four-wheeler. This experience was a source of laughter and memorable memories.
Then, we undertook a hike to Cap à la Grave to reach the famous 'Bout du monde'. The breathtaking nature and the breathtaking view amply rewarded us for our efforts. Two types of trails were available to us, one through the woods and the other on gravel, which was a little busier. If you dream of meeting a bear, I strongly suggest you go for the first option. The reward at Bout du Monde is well worth it: the perfectly maintained lighthouse by Parks Canada offers a magnificent view, and if you're lucky, you'll also be able to admire Gannets.
Finally, our last stop at Cap Bon Ami pleasantly surprised us, with its rare birds and its sublime beach. This stop is an absolute must - the view over the stratified rock cape is well worth the detour.
Looking back, if we could have redone our trip, we would have spent at least 2 full days exploring this beautiful park. Forillon National Park is truly a natural treasure to be discovered and fully savored.
Going around the Gaspésie in a counterclockwise direction also offers the possibility of saving a winding road for the end. Indeed, from Forillon, the road turns into a real roller coaster, but the landscapes available to you are simply breathtaking. On one side you have majestic mountains that stretch as far as the eye can see, while on the other side the sea stretches endlessly. All along the journey, charming little villages line the road, adding a touch of attachment to this adventure. But be careful because it's quite a challenge when darkness sets in!
That evening, we chose Mont-Louis as our destination. We found refuge in a charming hostel which transforms into a café-boutique at first light. What we particularly liked was the commitment of this store and many others to local products rather than foreign imports. Thus, we were able to delight in delicious local foods, savor regional drinks and discover a variety of other artisanal products such as handmade soaps. This added an authentic and responsible touch to our stay, in harmony with the spirit of the region.
Throughout our trip, we had the pleasure of tasting, savoring and discovering a multitude of foods and drinks. Among the local delicacies, several varieties of Kombucha are produced in the region. We would like to share with you our two essential favorites:
Vi Kombucha (Monarda Flower): This deliciously refreshing Kombucha captivated our taste buds from the first sip. Its balanced taste and slight effervescence make it an invigorating drink perfect for quenching your thirst while exploring the surroundings.
Les Chants du Fleuve : A true taste gem, this Kombucha enchanted us with its unique aroma and exquisite flavor. Its artisanal fermentation gives it remarkable complexity, making each sip a true journey for the senses.
We will treasure the memory of these two discoveries which added a delicious note to our culinary adventure.
Leaving Mont-Louis, you will have the opportunity to discover charming little villages, magnificent churches and picturesque coves. You'll also be amazed by chance encounters with playful foxes, a variety of majestic birds, and even the chance to observe seals leisurely sunning themselves on the rocks. It is therefore essential to keep your eyes wide open so as not to miss anything of this abundant nature!
To fully enjoy the delights of the region, we decided to enhance our trip with hiking. This time our adventure was particularly unique, as we followed the coastline along the sparkling rock beach at Petite Tourelle. This seaside walk offered us a completely different and captivating experience. We were delighted with our morning and even had the chance to capture a photo of its charming little turret, a real gem.
Leaving Gaspésie, we decided to take a detour to the famous Cantine Ste-Flavie . To our surprise, the place was crowded. However, this is not surprising when you discover the quality of the products offered there. The dishes are full of delicious seafood. We were pleasantly surprised by this experience.
Our undeniable favorite in Bas-Saint-Laurent was the town of Kamouraska . Its magnificent riverside, its rose bushes which line the small streets dotted with small old houses and its charming shops totally captivated us. Among the many wonders that this destination offers, the magnificent sunsets are undoubtedly among the most captivating moments.
Nestled in a charming white building with a welcoming veranda, the Côté Est restaurant will seduce you from the moment you arrive. If you're looking for gastronomic delights for dinner, look no further: its impeccable dishes make this place a must-visit. Our taste adventure on the East Side transported us to new heights. From fresh oysters and flavorful scallops to melt-in-the-mouth halibut and deliciously prepared shrimp, every bite was an explosion of flavor. And what can we say about the exquisitely delicate ravioli, which delighted our taste buds! The highlight of the show was undoubtedly the desserts. Gourmet creations that concluded our meal in style. A big congratulations to Kim Côté, nominated for the prestigious title of chef of the year at the Lauriers de la Gastronomie 2023. Each bite was an explosion of flavors, making this meal the highlight of our stay! In addition to the divine cuisine, the atmosphere at Restaurant Côté Est is simply warm and welcoming. The impeccable and attentive service adds an extra touch to this culinary experience. We are delighted to see Perle Morency receive the 2023 Laurier de la Gastronomie for best service, as she made our evening unforgettable.
For lunch, we were absolutely enchanted by our experience at Café du Clocher, a restaurant that stands out for its warm atmosphere and original culinary offering. As soon as we arrived we were warmly welcomed by the staff which created a pleasant atmosphere from the start. The service was impeccable throughout our meal, with an attentive and professional team ensuring we lacked for nothing. The place was lovely, the old stable having been decorated with care, providing a friendly ambiance which made us feel comfortable and relaxed. As for the lunch itself, it was both generous and tasty, offering deliciously prepared dishes that satisfied our taste buds without weighing us down. The portions were perfectly portioned, allowing us to fully enjoy the meal without feeling too full. Overall, Café du Clocher was a great way to start our day. We highly recommend it to anyone looking for a unique dining experience in a welcoming and friendly setting. We can't wait to return on our next visit to the area.
In conclusion, we highly recommend a 10-day trip to discover the wonders of these two regions. What makes this experience particularly pleasant is the possibility of following the majestic St. Lawrence River and discovering treasures of happiness along the way.
Don’t hesitate to share your favorites with us!
Here are some recommended cottages in the three regions:
Les Perchoirs du Cirque at St-Germain-de-Kamouraska
Air B n B Au Vieux Couvent : St-Mathieu-de-Rioux (for sale in 2023)
Note : If you are a fan of electric vehicles, Lower St-Laurent and Gaspésie are made for you! You will be pampered with a much more accessible charging infrastructure than in Quebec. Explore these magnificent regions with complete peace of mind, knowing that charging stations will be close at hand.